Tried & Tested Food Review
Organised chaos may be their motto, but does putting five types of cuisine on one menu ever really work? Rhea Dhanbhoora heads over to see if Global Chaos can pull it off
I knew the staircase leading up to the second level at Global Chaos looked familiar (although I couldn’t place it), which wasn’t a surprise, because the fancy eatery has replaced a humble Udipi restaurant that I can’t say bears any resemblance to it. With the wood-enhanced interiors, bevelled mirrors and pretty globular lights swinging over window seats, this is a far cry from the modest space it once was.
Whether it’s a bar-like ambiance you’re looking for (on the lower level, complete with a large screen for matches) or a fine-dine experience (the narrow stairs are a bit precarious so watch your step), Cordon-Bleu chef Chingy Patel’s new venture seems like it’s off to a good start.
Browsing through the menu can be a bit of an issue, because there’s just so much to pick from! We couldn’t try everything, but I had to start somewhere, so I went with the chef’s recommendations instead. You should remember that the menu has up to 25 appetisers and 25 mains from major cuisines around the world (Asian, American, European, Indian and a special regional section), so pick carefully for a well-rounded experience here.
It’s not often I’d recommend the soup at a restaurant over starters and salads, but at Global Chaos, they make this an easy pick. While the White Miso Soup (Rs 175) may not have been the best I’ve ever tasted, there was something about the Corn and Chipotle Bisque (Rs 175) that I couldn’t get enough of. The char-roasted flavour of the corn combined with the chipotle chili was delicious — but remember, it’s heavy!
We also tried the Asian slaw (Rs 300), and while I usually dislike peanut dressing, this was delicious, the pickled greens and ginger taking centre stage instead of the nuts. More like a coleslaw (but no mayonnaise, thankfully) than a regular Asian green salad, this one will leave you licking your lips.
We continued with Chettinad Potato Wedges (Rs 300) — these are fiery, so be careful if you have a delicate tummy. However, the oven-roasted potatoes are delicious. We moved on to a dish of Asparagus Phyllo Spears (Rs 300), curious about how good the phyllo was going to be when it was wrapped around an asparagus. Surprisingly, the buttery, flaky pastry was perfect on almost all the spears, and the asparagus inside was also the perfect balance between soft and crunchy.
Everything seemed to be going well for the restaurant, but I wasn’t as impressed by the Wasabi Paani Puri (Rs 300) as other guests seemed to be. The concept sounded great — wasabi-coated paneer, garbanzo beans and sprouts in paani puri shells, with a tangy sweet chilli sauce. However, they tasted like bean sprouts in a puri with tamarind chutney. I wouldn’t go for seconds here, that is unless they found a way to give it more of a kick.
One of our favourites of the night was the Middle Eastern Kibbeh (Rs 400), an Iranian kebab spiced with sumac. The soft lamb patty was one of the better kibbeh’s I’ve tasted — especially since I’m not usually a big fan.
The main event
While most of the starters were big hits, the mains were more of a mixed bag. The Ravioli (Rs 550) was a winner, with the smoked scarmoza cheese and tangy tomato sauce in a perfect marriage of flavours.
The Marinade Boneless Chicken (Rs 600) soaked up the flavour of lemongrass and red chillies perfectly, but may have had a little too much peanut sauce, so I stuck to the burnt garlic and chilli fried rice. Next up was a Chicken in Pomegranate Stew (Rs 550) and while the Iranian chicken was soft, juicy and delicious and the pomegranate added a different kick, the walnut paste didn’t sit right with my palette. Those who are fond of nutty, fruity gravies may enjoy this more.
Several dishes on the Global Chaos menu look delicious, but we didn’t have the space or time to try them all in one sitting, so we decided it was time for dessert. Although the Pajam Nooruku (Rs 300) isn’t something we would usually pick, we thought we could try it out since it seemed like the most chaotic on the menu, keeping with the theme of the restaurant. Surprisingly, the ripe bananas, coconut milk and jaggery in the crispy pastry taste better than they sound. It’s warm, soothing and served with ice cream — what’s not to love?
Since Global Chaos plans to revamp its menu more often than most restaurants (every few months we were told), we won’t say you should head over for any one dish in particular. While some of the flavours here could take some getting used to, this is a great place to visit if you’re with a group and can’t decide who gets to pick the cuisine of their choice. For a meal that includes a light Asian stew, a heavy Indian curry and a plate of nachos (all well cooked), this is the place to be.
At Global Chaos, every cuisine is given its due, so it won’t seem like you’re at an Indian restaurant that also happens to serve Chinese — or vice versa. And, while you’re trying to select a dish from the slew of options, try their drinks too. Those with lemongrass in particular are lip-smacking and refreshing.
Where 105/107, Ground Floor, Mistry Mansion, Opposite Mumbai University, MG Road, Fort
Meal for two Rs 1,600
Alcohol served No