The monsoons in Mumbai mark the arrival of the bhutta. Carts pop up all over equipped with stacks of bhutta, a sigdi, a bunch of nimbus and a large plastic box of mixed amchur, chilli and rock salt masala. Earlier when there was only the pale yellow Indian corn you needed to press the niblets to check which ones were full but now with the plump, golden American corn no one does that anymore. Everything else stays the same: choose your bhutta and the bhuttawallah grills it on the sigdi till the corn is nice and roasted, then it's rubbed well with the cut nimbu that's been dipped into the masala. The fancier bhuttawallahs will offer lashings of butter as well, for a glistening buttery masala bhutta.