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Seventh Heaven

Friday, September 28, 2012

Newly opened European restaurant Cesky by Christian Cilia prides itself on its exclusivity and seven-course set meal. Rhea Dhanbhoora finds out whether the Powai restaurant is worth spending a pretty penny on

There’s fine dining and then there’s Cesky. While most affluent restaurants in the city pride themselves on their ambience, Cesky delivers a meal that is all about the food on your plate. But, be warned, it’s not for picky eaters.

The restaurant is unambiguous, with a few tables lined with starched white tablecloths, candles in glass boxes throwing faint light on your food and comfy white chairs. The dim lights, high ceilings and pin-drop silence made us feel as though we had to whisper just so that we didn’t disrupt the opulence.
Master chef Christian Cilia doesn’t play around with his food and he won’t appreciate you wasting any time to dig into it either — with good reason. Cesky serves set meals, so you’ll have to book in advance for them to prepare your meal. We were treated to the seven course dinner that costs a tidy Rs 3,500 per head, not inclusive of alcohol. But, we suggest browsing through the fine selection of European wines that go well with the Maltese fare on offer.

There are very few restaurants that will serve this French-Italian cuisine and even if they do, it’s usually modified to suit Indian palettes or devoid of the interesting ingredients that make the food unique. Chef Cilia does neither, choosing to stay true to its roots, which we were more than a little thrilled about.
We started our gastronomical evening by spooning up the Beetroot Sorbet with Candied Orange Peel & Goat Cheese Mousse, a refreshing and indulgent appetiser. The saltiness of the cheese complements the sweetness of the sorbet and the spoon of caviar was a luxurious surprise. Next up was the Veloute of Borlotti Beans au Cassoulet, a bean soup that some may find bland, but we loved it.

The next course is not for the faint hearted. Torchon of Foie Gras with Maraschino Chellies is a generous round of duck liver, accompanied by sour cherries. It melted in my mouth, but is quite heavy, so we suggest going easy on it. The Pan Fried King Scallops with Squid Ink Risotto and Tomato Tartare looks like it’s a serving for a child, but is surprisingly satisfying and delectable. The risotto’s gentle flavours didn’t overpower the scallops. However, the star of the night was the Veal Cheeks with Truffled Pomme puree, San Danielle and Black Truffle. The veal was so tender we hardly had to chew and the parma ham and truffles added a touch of class.

Desserts were artistically presented and while the Pear Sorbet with Chocolate Pain d’epices was delicious and light, the Banana Mousse with Peanut Butter Crunch was too heavy for my liking. We finished the set meal with coffee, cookies and chocolates.

At Cesky, you’ll be offered a lavish meal and treated like royalty. If food for you is synonymous with love and you can afford the slight pinch, this is one luxury meal that’s worth the price.

Where Meluha the Fern, Hirandandani Gardens, Powai
Meal for two Rs 7,000 (without alcohol)
Alcohol served Yes 
Contact 26002223/ 26

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